How to replace a fin in a washing machine drum?
The fins on the drum of an automatic machine are very important to ensure maximum cleaning efficiency. The blades turn things inside the washing machine, allowing the “home assistant” to remove all dirt from the fabric. Without the fin punches, washing will turn into a regular rinse. Sometimes it may be necessary to replace the washing machine drum fin. We'll tell you what types of bumpers there are, what they are needed for, and how to change the bumpers with your own hands on front-loading and vertical-loading machines.
What types of bumpers are there and why are they needed?
It is not difficult to notice that the drum rib needs to be replaced. This problem is visible to the naked eye. You need to look inside the machine. There are two options:
- the redan has “come off” from the surface of the drum and no longer holds in its usual place;
- The bumper is not secured firmly; when pressed, it moves out of place.
In any situation, it is better to immediately repair or replace the drum rib. The bumpers must be purchased for a specific model of washing machine. For example, on Indesit and Ardo top-loading washing machines, 3 steps are installed, two hollow and one heavy (it serves as a balancer). If it is the balancing rib punch that is damaged, be sure to install the same one.
The overwhelming majority of front-wheel drives have only hollow blades. There will be no need for expensive heavy fenders, so the cost of components will be lower. But getting to the fastenings in this case is more difficult. On “verticals” of the Bosch and Brandt brands a flat step is installed. In such models, only one rib is provided.
Why are bumpers located in the drum of a washing machine needed? During the washing process, it is the redans that ensure the movement of laundry inside the machine. Things are “thrown” from one edge to another, thereby the clothes are “beaten”, and the washing process becomes more efficient.
If there are no bumpers in the drum, the washing efficiency will decrease by 50-70%.
In addition, if even one bumper falls off, the laundry will begin to cling to the drum. There are special fastenings on the surface for redans, which are sharp enough to ruin things. Therefore, it is important not to start the wash until the rib is returned to its place.
Usually the edgings fail due to foreign objects getting into the blades: bra wires, paper clips, small keys, etc. When they fly under the bump stop, the things break the plastic fasteners, after which the rib begins to fall off. You can replace the element yourself.
We replace and repair the bump stop on the “vertical”
The progress of work on replacing the gearbox for frontal and vertical machines will vary. To begin with, we’ll tell you how to remove the old one and install a new bumper on a “vertical” washing machine, using a Brandt washing machine as an example.
Before starting work, be sure to turn off the power to the washing machine.
The Brandt top-loading washing machine has one flat step. It is located at the bottom of the drum. To remove the bump stop, you only need a screwdriver. Having prepared the tool, you need to:
- lift the top cover;
- open the drum doors;
- Use a screwdriver to press the special hole on the surface of the bumper;
- move the edge to the side, focusing on the arrow tips.
The new bumper is installed in the reverse order.The fasteners must fit into the grooves, so the rib will be securely fixed to the surface of the drum.
If a foreign object damaged only one blade mount, it is not necessary to buy a new element. To save money, you can repair the old bumper. Turning the “vertical” over, you can see many stiffening ribs.
On the side where there are no factory fasteners, it will be necessary to drill the stiffeners in three planes. These holes are necessary to secure the bump stop with disposable clamps. On the side where the latches are not broken, you will not have to resort to such measures.
To install a “repaired” redan, you must:
- open the drum flaps and put the bumper in its place, so that the remaining factory fasteners fit into the grooves;
- close the “centrifuge” and turn it until the rib punch attachment point is at the top;
- secure the redan by threading clamps through the holes on the drum and holes drilled in the stiffeners.
The clamps must be secured as shown in the figure. The clamps must be tightened tightly, and the remaining ends must be “bitten off” with pliers. After such manipulation, the bump stop will “sit” securely in its place.
Do not use bad clamps, otherwise it will be impossible to securely fix the bump stop.
We replace and repair gearboxes on the front-end
Replacing drum fins on front-loading washing machines is much more difficult. If you install new bumpers, you will have to remove the tank from the machine, that is, almost completely disassemble the “home assistant”. This is a rather labor-intensive process.
If the redan is only slightly wobbly, it can be repaired.In this case, you will not have to remove the drum from the machine. To fix the bumper, you will need a regular metal wire with a soft rubber “braid”. The process of attaching the rib will take no more than 5-10 minutes. The algorithm of actions will be as follows:
- turn off the power to the machine;
- open the hatch door and illuminate the drum with a flashlight or lamp;
- align a rib that does not “sit” tightly in place;
- insert the wire into the near hole of the redan, pass it under the drum and pull it out through the far hole of the chipper;
- tighten the knots tightly on both sides;
- “hide” the sharp ends of the wire in the adjacent holes of the redan.
If the bumper comes off completely, or you simply want to replace the damaged blade, you will have to remove the drum from the washer to install a new part. To do this you need:
- disconnect the machine from the water supply and sewerage;
- drain the remaining water from the system through a garbage filter;
- remove the top housing cover;
- remove the lower false panel;
- get the powder receptacle;
- Unscrew the control panel bolts and remove the “tidy”;
- remove the hatch cuff;
- remove the door lock;
- remove the front wall by unscrewing the screws holding it;
- remove the back panel of the case;
- reset the drive belt;
- disconnect the wiring from the heating element;
- disconnect the power wires from the motor, pull out the engine;
- disconnect all hoses and pipes from the tank;
- remove shock-absorbing elements;
- pull out the tank;
- disassemble the tank by removing the mounting bolts and dealing with the latches;
- unscrew the screw and remove the pulley;
- remove the drum from the plastic container.
If the tank of your washing machine is non-separable, the tank will have to be cut.
If the damaged step needs to be removed, then straighten the special fastening “tongues” on the outside of the drum. When you can’t get the bump stop this way, you’ll have to use a hair dryer. Direct a stream of hot air at the rib, the plastic will become soft, more pliable, and pulling out the blade will not be difficult.
The new level is installed in the same way. If the bumper does not fit into the seat, you can also blow one of its edges with a hair dryer and “sand” the wall. The fasteners are inserted into the grooves, and then the fixing “tabs” are bent. Reassembling the washing machine is performed in the reverse order.
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1 reader comment
This is a scam to hand over your washing machine for repairs and rip off money. Everything is done without disassembling, see other recommendations.