How to replace bearings on a Vestel washing machine

How to replace bearings on a Vestel washing machine The bearing system is responsible for the soft and uniform rotation of the drum. And a knock, vibration and rumble that suddenly appeared during the spin cycle clearly indicate the need to replace the bearing on the washing machine. Vestel slot machines are no exception - here the “symptoms” and “treatment” of problematic spinning are no different from the standard scheme. The main thing is to prepare everything you need and act according to the instructions. All algorithms and recommendations are given in the article.

We'll collect everything you need

To replace bearings on a Vestel machine, you must first prepare for the process. First of all, we find a puller or hammer, a flat-head and Phillips screwdriver, a set of wrenches and hexagons, a screwdriver, a chisel, a rubber mallet, pliers and side cutters. A couple of clean rags will also come in handy.

In addition to tools, you will also need new spare parts. To do this, we go to the market, service center, specialized store, or place an order in an online store. In any case, it is better to focus on the serial number of the model, which must be indicated on the sticker markings on the back of the machine. Along with the bearings, it is recommended to change both seals, and for top-loading machines, calipers are also included in the kit. It is also important to have seal lubricant, kerosene or all-purpose WD-40.

Important! In order not to make a mistake with the size of the bearing and oil seal, remove the damaged model and use the markings on it to guide you.

Next, we prepare the washing machine itself for repair:

disconnect the unit from the power supply;
turn off the water supply and disconnect the inlet hose;
unscrew the drain hose;
for convenience, we twist all the hoses and cords;
we move the equipment away from the wall or pull it out of the closet to such a distance that you can easily approach the back wall.

Another piece of advice is to take the time to take care of your camera and notepad in advance. By carefully recording all steps taken to disassemble the machine, you can make reassembly easier and avoid many mistakes. When everything is assembled, we begin dismantling.

Preparatory stage

Replacing a bearing assembly with your own hands is quite difficult, but it is quite possible if you do not experiment and be extremely careful. If you have the slightest doubt, it is better to contact professional repairmen so as not to aggravate the problem and provoke a major overhaul. Therefore, first we read the instructions and assess the degree of complexity of the upcoming work.

First, let's check the condition of the bearings again. Let's spin the drum and listen. If there is a cracking sound, a knocking sound and a quick stop, we begin dismantling.
We go behind the machine and unscrew the two bolts holding the top cover. Then we return to the front side and gently move the top away from us. Once the latches are released, you need to remove the cover and set it aside.

On a note! The removed cover can be turned over and used as a stand for all small parts and fasteners to be removed to prevent their loss.

We tilt the body back a little.
We take out the external dispenser by sharply pulling it towards ourselves.
We unscrew the bolts holding the front panel on both sides of the body, as well as the fasteners on the powder receptacle.
Move the removed panel to the side.
Let's move on to the hatch cuff. Remove the front clamp and tuck the rubber inside.
We remove the front bar. We unscrew the four self-tapping screws, one in each corner, close the door, lower the panel down until the latches engage, move the door lock and remove the part.
We take out the second part of the strip by unscrewing two screws on both sides.
We select suitable heads and unscrew the counterweights from the bottom and top.
We disconnect the remaining part of the dispenser by removing the valve and pulling out the pipe.
Use pliers to release the clamp on the lower pipe.
We tighten all the clamps on the existing wires.
We release the wiring.
We pull out the shock absorbers by hand and disconnect the pressure switch.

The preparatory part is over. All that remains is to get the tank out, holding it with one hand and removing the springs on both sides with the other. Then we place the plastic container with the cross up on a soft surface and begin dismantling the bearing assembly.

pull out the tank with the drum

Replacing the bearing assembly

To get to the bearing assembly, you will have to perform a couple more steps. We immediately recommend removing the cuff, using a flat screwdriver to hook the spring clamp, and unscrewing the engine. Then we continue dismantling:

We unscrew the pulley 12 with the head; inserting a hammer handle between the stiffening ribs will make the task easier;
we divide the tank into two halves, removing all the provided bolts (about 16) on the seam;
clean the inner surface of the tank and heating element from scale;
if the drum does not come out of the second half on its own, place the container on the supports and spray WD-40 into the cross;
wait 5-10 minutes until the liquid eats away the accumulated dirt;
find a bolt of suitable diameter and screw it in completely;
We take a rubber mallet and punch the bolt through its base with a hammer until the rod falls through;
twist the auxiliary bolt;
remove the tank;
clean off the scale around the bearings with a screwdriver;
pry up the outer ring with a chisel and take out all the elements of the assembly;
thoroughly wash the tank with WD-40 and wipe dry;
insert the smaller bearing with a puller along the outer race;

If there is no special device, you can gently tap the part, moving in a circle.

turn the tank over, lower the inner bearing into the groove and tap it in the same way as the first method, cover it with a ring of suitable diameter and hammer it in again;
take out the clip and check the edges;
install the oil seal and fix it with superglue for greater strength;
lubricate with a waterproof compound.

Now we assemble the machine, proceeding in reverse order. We place half of the tank on the shaft, connect it to the second part and install the pulley in place. At this stage, we check the quality of the replacement made by spinning the drum and assessing the smoothness of rotation.

Next, you need to put on the cuff, securing it with two clamps, and then return the wiring, counterweights, front strips, control panel and other structural elements. It is better to navigate by notes in a notebook or video recording - then the likelihood of an error will be reduced to zero. At the “finish”, don’t forget about the test cycle and start the fastest wash.