Why doesn't the washing machine rinse or spin?
It's hard to accept if your washing machine doesn't rinse or spin. Clothes remain locked in the drum and in soapy water, and the scheduled wash has to be stopped. Moreover, after that it is necessary to “stir up” the frozen machine, empty the tank and unload the clothes. But first you need to find out the reasons for the sudden failure of the washing machine to rinse and spin. Let's consider all possible problems and ways to solve them.
External factors
If the washing machine stops with a full tank, then you won’t be able to ignore the freeze. It is necessary to check the machine for the functionality of the components and mechanisms responsible for rinsing and spinning. Ideally, you should call a specialist, but you can “discard” the typical causes of failure on your own. First of all, it is recommended to eliminate external factors that make it difficult to drain water from the washing machine.
- The drain hose is “closed”. Often the machine is working properly, but the water cannot leave the tank due to a blocked drain. Most likely, the drainage hose is bent or pinched - the corrugation has fallen under a machine gun or other heavy object. In this case, the pump, due to insufficient pressure, is not able to pump the liquid into the sewer.
- The drain is clogged. Another option is that the drain hose, common riser or siphon is clogged. As a rule, the blockage occurs in the drainage sleeve, which must be disconnected from the machine body, inspected and washed.
The washing machine does not start spinning and rinsing if the drainage system of the machine is clogged!
Are the drains and hoses ok? Then the problem with draining lies inside the machine - the system does not give or cannot execute the command to empty the tank. In any case, you will have to conduct a comprehensive diagnostic of the washing machine, checking each key drainage element for serviceability. Let’s look at how and what to do point by point.
Most likely problems
If your washing machine refuses to rinse and spin, it’s not a reason to panic. The machine stops in the middle of a cycle with a drum full of soapy water quite often, and the problem is not always large-scale. Moreover, you can determine the nature of the problem and fix it yourself, without contacting service.
If the washing machine does not switch to rinse and spin, then most often the problem is a blockage, a broken pump, a faulty pressure switch, or a failed module. Let's look at each problem in more detail.
- Blockage. In addition to the drain hose, the garbage filter and drain pipe can become clogged and thereby block the drain. Sometimes a coin or keys that get into the tank completely block the drainage, preventing the waste liquid from leaving the drum. To clear the blockage, you will have to partially disassemble the machine and wash the clogged elements.
- Broken pump. It is the pump that is “responsible” for pumping water out of the washing machine. If it burns out, the system will not start, and the machine will remain standing with a full tank. Sometimes the problem is a blockage - the impeller is blocked by debris. The drainage diagnostics will tell you what repairs will be needed.
- Faulty pressure switch. If the level sensor does not work correctly, the control board does not receive a command to drain. For example, a pressure switch shows that the tank is empty, while it is full of soapy water.
- Failed control board.It’s simple: the “brain” of the washing machine does not give the command to drain due to a breakdown. As a result, the machine hangs with a full tank.
As a rule, if the machine does not switch to rinsing and spinning, then you need to pay attention to the pressure switch and drainage system. You can cope with diagnostics and repairs at home, the main thing is to act consistently and carefully. All instructions are below.
Drain filter and sleeve
First of all, it is recommended to check the drainage system for damage and blockages. But first, empty the tank through the waste filter hole. We proceed like this:
- disconnect the machine from communications;
- remove the technical hatch door;
- place a container under the garbage filter to collect water;
- unscrew the plug;
- collecting water.
As soon as the washing machine tank is empty, the electronic door lock will be released - the user will be able to remove the laundry. Next, the drainage is diagnosed: the hole freed from the nozzle is inspected and, if necessary, cleaned. The filter itself is also washed in warm soapy water.
Washing machine manufacturers recommend cleaning the garbage filter every 2-3 months.
Be sure to check the drain hose for blockages: probe the entire length of the hose. If there is a “lump”, then the corrugation is cleaned with a special cable or a wire bent into a “hook”. At the “finish”, rinse the gum under the tap.
Let's inspect the pump
Next in line is the drain pump. You can guess that it is broken or clogged before it suddenly stops: the washing cycle lasts longer, and the pump hums suspiciously when pumping out water. If you do not respond to the “symptoms” in time, the machine will stop draining. The pump malfunctions for two reasons:
- blockage (hair, lint and other debris wrap around the impeller, blocking the drain);
- breakdown (factory defect, natural wear and tear, careless operation).
You can deal with the pump yourself. To begin with, the washer is lowered onto its left side and freed from the bottom, after which the pump is unhooked from the snail and inspected. If the problem is a clogged impeller, then it is enough to free its blades from debris. At the same time, neighboring elements are also washed.
A burnt-out pump cannot be repaired - only replaced!
If everything is visually “clean”, then we test the pump with a multimeter. A burnt-out pump will show “0” or “1”, and if there are problems with the control module, the tester will give a three-digit number. In the first case, a replacement with a similar device is indicated, in the second - a call for service.
Is the power supply to the devices OK?
In rare cases, rinsing and spinning do not work due to problems with the electronics. The integrity of the wiring is compromised, which leads to problems with the supply of voltage to devices and components. To restore the power supply, you will have to check the entire circuit running from the control board to the pump and pressure switch. The main thing is to first turn off the power to the equipment and act as carefully as possible.
Repairing the control board yourself is too risky - it’s better to turn to professionals!
It's worse if the control board is broken. It is strongly not recommended to repair and test the module yourself - without knowledge, experience and special equipment, you can aggravate the problem, even leading to death. It’s better not to experiment, but to immediately contact the service for professional diagnostics.
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