Candy washing machine does not heat water

If you notice that the Candy washing machine does not heat the water, immediately begin diagnostics. In this case, the quality of washing deteriorates greatly, so there is no point in delaying repairs. Let's figure out what failure of internal components leads to a lack of heating, what to check first.

Is there really a problem?

It would seem that if the water in the machine does not heat up, then the heating element is broken. However, this is not always the reason. Often it’s not even a matter of breakdown. Therefore, you should not immediately disassemble the washing machine; first, it is recommended to conduct a small investigation.

Some CMA Candy washing programs do not require heating the water by default.

Therefore, first, look at what washing program is running. Perhaps an algorithm has been selected that does not involve heating the water. If you are not sure which mode you turned on, activate “Cotton 60” and observe the operation of the automatic machine.

Modern Candy provides the ability to adjust the default program parameters. Sometimes the buttons do not work, the user thinks that he has increased the wash temperature, but in fact this is not the case. You will have to check the quality of the cycle settings by re-activating the mode and working with the control panel. If the machine heats the water, then there was a banal “glitch” of the system.

Many users, when taking cold clothes out of the washing machine, think that the machine does not heat the water when washing. In fact, the final rinse of things takes place in cool water. Therefore, this does not at all indicate a lack of heating.

To check if the washing machine is heating water:

• select any high temperature mode (for example, “Cotton 60”);
• activate the cycle;
• wait 20-30 minutes;
• touch the door glass;
• evaluate the degree of heating of the hatch - the glass should be warm.

It doesn't have to be really hot, just warm. If, when you start the high-temperature washing mode, after half an hour the glass of the hatch door remains cold, there are problems with heating. In this case, diagnostics of the machine will be required. Let’s figure out what breakdowns of which elements can cause such “behavior” of the washing machine.

Most likely problems

It is not recommended to operate a washing machine that is not working correctly. Therefore, there is no need to delay diagnosis. Otherwise, the situation can only get worse, and the “home assistant” will completely fail.

Modern Kandy washing machines are equipped with a self-diagnosis system - they detect a problem, stop the cycle, and immediately notify the user about the problem.

In this case, it is easier to find out what happened to the automatic machine. It is enough to decipher the error code issued by the washing machine using the instructions. The manual will indicate what malfunction the CMA reports.

Candy machines without a self-diagnosis system continue to work, washing things in cold water. This is where users begin to suspect heating problems when they end up with poorly washed items.

Most often, Kandy washing machines stop heating water due to:

• malfunction of the heating element (usually the heater is covered with a thick layer of scale, which disrupts its thermal conductivity, sometimes the reason is the element is short-circuited);
• failure of the pressure switch (the water level sensor does not inform the module that the tank is full, the “brain” of the machine does not give the command to heat the liquid);
• a break in the wiring connecting the heating element to the control board (the circuit opens, because of this the heating element cannot work);
• damage to the temperature sensor (an incorrectly functioning thermostat will transmit incorrect readings to the module, as a result of which the water in the tank may not heat up);
• failure of the main control module (possible failure of the resistor responsible for communication with the heating element or separation/oxidation of the contacts).

Most problems can be resolved with your own hands, at home. The help of a service center specialist will only be required to repair the electronic module. If you decide to act on your own, remember safety precautions and do not deviate from the instructions.

The heating element is at fault

The water in most Russian regions is too hard. Only a few users systematically descale their washing machine; many forget about this need. As a result, limescale deposits accumulate on the internal elements of the machine. This is the main reason for the failure of the heating element.

The SMA tubular heater is covered with a thick layer of scale, which leads to disruption of heat transfer and burnout of the element.

You can check the heater at home. To diagnose the heating element, you will need a multimeter. Before you begin disassembling the SMA housing, be sure to completely de-energize the device. Further:

• close the shut-off valve responsible for supplying water to the machine;
• move the washer away from the wall (you will need access to the back of the case);
• remove the posterior wall of the MCA;
• find the heating element, it is located under the tank.

Before you begin disconnecting the terminals, take a photo of the wiring diagram. This will allow you to avoid mistakes during the reassembly process. Further actions:

• reset the heater wiring;
• turn on the multimeter, switch it to resistance measurement mode;
• set the tester to 200 Ohm;
• place the multimeter probes against the heater terminals;
• evaluate the readings on the meter screen.

Normally, the multimeter should output 26-28 ohms. If one is displayed on the tester display, this indicates an internal break in the heater. Zero indicates a short circuit of the element. The heating element cannot be repaired; it will need to be replaced.

If the resistance reading is normal, the heater body is checked for breakdown. To do this, the tester switches to buzzer mode. Next, the multimeter probe is leaned against the heating element. If the device makes a squeaking sound, there is a problem and the part will have to be replaced.

A new heating element is purchased for a specific model of SMA Kandy. It is better to purchase original components. You will also have to remove the old heater. Dismantling is often complicated by deformation of the protective gasket - it increases in volume and interferes with the removal of the element. The algorithm of actions will be as follows:

• treat the rubber gasket with WD-40 cleaner;
• wait 15 minutes;
• disconnect the temperature sensor;
• twist the central nut, remove the bolt holding the heating element;
• Gently rocking the heater, pull the element out of the “socket”.

Before installing a new heating element, be sure to clean the seat from scale and dirt. It is also better to stick your hand into the hole and remove all the debris that has accumulated inside. Next, insert the heater into the “socket” and secure it with a bolt and nut. Then connect the thermistor and wiring. Then assemble the machine body and run the high-temperature test cycle.

The level sensor is acting up

Another likely reason for the lack of heating is a broken pressure switch.It's easier to check the level sensor. To gain access to the part, it is enough to remove the top panel of the SMA housing.

The water level sensor is located in the center near the dispenser. In appearance it resembles a washer; a long hose extends from the part, which “goes” into the tank. How to check the pressure switch:

• prepare a tube whose diameter will match the size of the level sensor fitting;
• disconnect the pressure switch hose by loosening the clamp;
• insert the prepared tube into the fitting and blow into it;
• listen - if the sensor is working properly, the contacts will work, which will be indicated by 1-3 characteristic clicks.

Next, the level sensor is inspected for defects, cracks, and traces of burning. Be sure to check whether the pressure switch tube is clogged. If necessary, the hose is washed under running warm water.

It is also worth checking the pressure switch with a multimeter. The tester is switched to ohmmeter mode, after which its probes are applied to the contacts of the part. Next, evaluate the readings of the device - if they change, then everything is in order. If not, the level sensor will need to be replaced.

There is no point in repairing the pressure switch; it is much easier to buy a new sensor. The process of dismantling the part is standard; you will need to loosen the clamps, remove the chip with wires and remove the “washer”. The working part is installed in the reverse order.

If everything is fine with the pressure switch, the temperature sensor is checked. It is also tested with a multimeter. If the thermistor is OK, then the problem is in the control board. It is better to entrust the diagnostics and repair of the electronic module of a Kandy washing machine to specialists.

   

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