Midea washing machine error codes
What should an ordinary user do if he discovers that his washing machine has stopped working and displays an incomprehensible symbol on the screen? Should I immediately call the service center and call a technician? To begin with, it is better to understand the interpretation of error codes for Midea washing machines yourself. Perhaps the breakdown is so trivial that you can deal with it yourself at home.
The most common mistakes
To understand how to correct the situation, you need to figure out what kind of failure the washing machine is signaling. Most malfunctions can be fixed on your own without resorting to outside help. Most often, the Midea washing machine produces errors:
- E10, E The machine cannot fill the tank with water. The error code is caused by a clogged inlet hose, lack of or low water pressure in the water supply system, failure of the inlet valve, or failure of the triac on the control board responsible for filling the tank. You should inspect the hose, make sure there is water in the communications, check the valve winding and control unit.
- E Leak detected. The tightness of the system is broken. You need to inspect the machine for leaks and fix it.
- E20, E21 (in certain SMA models - C2). Water from the tank cannot be removed within the allotted time (10 minutes). The garbage filter, drain hose or pipe is probably clogged, or the pump is broken. What to do if an error is detected? You will have to clean the filter, drain pipe, pump impeller and the pump itself. Check the drain pump with a multimeter and replace it if necessary.
- E The impossibility of draining is precisely due to damage to the triac on the control board, which is responsible for the operation of the drain pump. The control module is diagnosed, the element is replaced with a serviceable one.
- E Problems with removing waste liquid from the tank due to broken contacts between the triac and the pump. You should inspect the wiring, isolate its damaged areas, and replace the cable if necessary.
- E Failure of the water level sensor. It is necessary to test the pressure switch; if it breaks, the part will need to be replaced. It is possible that the connection between the sensor and the control unit has been broken, so it would be useful to inspect the wiring.
- E Faulty pressure sensor or problem with the filling system. The reason for this may be a lack of water in the communications, a clogged system, or a failure of the pressure sensor. You should make sure there is water, check the inlet hose for blockages, and clean the pressure sensor pipes.
- E Damage to the pressure sensor, problems with the heating element’s protective relay. Probably, the machine detects inconsistency in the readings of the elements, a blockage, or increased voltage in the network. It is necessary to deal with blockages and ensure that the supplied voltage is stable.
- E The pressure switch with the second anti-boil level is not functioning correctly. The sensor may have failed or the wires may have broken. You can install a working pressure switch or repair the power supply wiring.
- E Too much water in the tank. There is a malfunction of the level sensor. The pressure switch will have to be replaced.
- E The heater protection relay has broken. It is necessary to test the protective element.
- E Incorrect operation of the first water level sensor. The sensor should be inspected and a new one installed if necessary.
- E The pressure switch does not give any signals.The problem is probably a clogged level sensor tube. You will have to get to the pressure switch, remove it from the housing and clean the pipe.
- E Damage to the sensor that detects water overflow. The part should be inspected and replaced.
In most cases, you can fix the washing machine yourself. For example, when the machine gives an error about the impossibility of draining or collecting water into the tank.
It is better to immediately entrust repair work to the control module to professionals.
Rare ciphers
There are error codes that appear on the display of Midea washing machines very rarely. Finding their decoding is quite difficult. But users who encounter these designations will definitely be helped by a brief interpretation of them.
- E5A. The permissible heating of the cooling radiator has been exceeded. There are problems with the control unit; the module needs to be replaced.
- E5B. Voltage too low (less than 175 V). There are probably problems with the electrical wiring. Another reason is damage to the control board.
- E5C. The network voltage is too high (more than 430 V). Replacing the control board will help fix the problem.
- E5D. No signal from FCV. The error code also indicates that the board is faulty and will need to be replaced.
- E5E. There is no contact between FCV and PCB. The situation can be corrected by replacing the control module.
- E5F. FCV continuously requests configuration information as repeated resets occur. The reason for this may be a breakdown of the unit or damage to its wiring. You can repair the machine by installing a new control board or by repairing the connection between the elements.
If the machine produces an error, do not rush to panic and call a team of technicians to your home. First of all, try rebooting the equipment (turn off the power and let it sit for about 15 minutes). Often a simple reboot helps eliminate the code.
Interesting:
19 reader comments
Code E9 on Midea
E12 code Midea
Hello, did you find the E12 code?
E62 code Midea
Error code E60, I can’t figure out what the problem is?
Also error E60
Is there 60 too?
Why understand? There is a master for this.
What does code E 12 mean? Midea's washing machine.
Replace brushes
Good afternoon, we also have e 60, e61, so what is the reason? Unknown?
E60 and E62
Midea machine. What does error code E71 mean?
Error on screen E21, what should I do?
What does error code E21 mean?
E3 – what is it?
SMA Midea. Error code E3. What does it mean?
Midea machine. E30. What to do?
My washing machine is at 0 degrees, how can I raise the thermometer?