The washing machine should operate almost silently - only a uniform hum or the rumble characteristic of a spin cycle is acceptable. If, during normal washing, you hear a rustling or knocking sound from the drum, then there is a problem. Especially when at low speeds the sound is louder, and at high speeds it becomes quieter or disappears altogether. A rustling noise occurs when the washing machine drum hits something while rotating. All that remains is to figure out where the “clue” is and how to eliminate it.
Causes of the shuffling sound
You can find the source of the shuffling sound at home without calling a specialist. It is enough to carry out consistent diagnostics, checking the possible causes of the problem. First of all, disconnect the washing machine from communications, open the hatch door, turn the drum with your palm and evaluate its “behavior”:
if the cylinder rotates silently with a slight stretch, there is no breakdown;
if you hear a grinding and humming sound when turning, the bearings are worn out;
the drum does not rotate - a hard object has entered the machine, jamming the cylinder;
the edge of the cylinder touches the cuff of the hatch - the elastic has fallen off or was chosen incorrectly;
the drum rotates slowly, with a strong tension - problems with the drive belt or a broken cross.
The second step is to pump the drum first forward, then back. It is necessary to evaluate whether there is any play: when the cylinder moves or subsides, a strong gap is formed. If the gap is visible, it means urgent repairs are required.
The washing drum should rotate silently and with little tension: rumble, grinding or braking during rotation are signs of breakdown.
Next, you should connect the washing machine to the communications and run the idle spin program at maximum speed.. If, during acceleration, the machine began to hit the walls of the case, it means that the container flew off the shaft or hung on its edge. In this case, the shock absorbers and bearing assembly will be suspect.
The next step is to inspect the back of the washing tub. The easiest way to do this is through the back panel: unscrew the bolts holding it and disconnect it from the case. Afterwards we evaluate the condition of the tank. If rusty streaks and drops of water are visible, the bearings are worn out.
During diagnostics, one of the following problems should be detected:
deformation of the drum cross;
problems with the drive belt (the elastic band has fallen off or torn);
bearing wear;
shaft failure;
failure of shock-absorbing elements (springs or dampers);
foreign object entering the tank.
Any of these problems causes the drum to change its rotation path, which causes grinding and rustling noise. But for an accurate “diagnosis”, more detailed testing of the system is necessary - you will have to consistently check all the options.
Finding and fixing the problem
Superficial diagnostics is only the first stage of repair. To verify the nature of the breakdown and determine exactly why the drum is rubbing against the walls of the machine, you will have to partially disassemble the machine. Next, you should sequentially check all possible problems, moving from the lightweight drive belt to the difficult-to-test bearing assembly.
The check begins with the drive:
disconnect the washing machine from communications;
turn the backside forward;
unscrew the bolts holding the rear wall;
remove the unscrewed panel to the side;
look at the pulley (is there a belt on it?);
we return the fallen belt to the pulleys, turning the wheel by hand;
We replace the torn rubber band with a new one, focusing on its serial number.
If the drive belt is in place, the diagnosis continues. We open the drum and look at the cuff: sometimes the edge of the cylinder touches the seal. You will have to trim the rubber slightly or sand off the “extra” part with fine-grained sandpaper.
The next step is to check the depreciation. The tank falls below a predetermined level, falling into the housing, when the upper springs malfunction. Broken and weakened “spirals” cannot hold the cylinder in the desired position - the container moves and begins to hit the walls of the washer. To correct the situation, you need to remove the old elements and install new ones. The instructions are as follows:
to dismantle the lower spring: fix the tank, pull the spiral down, unhook its hook from the surface of the tank and from the machine body;
to remove the upper spring: place an object under the tank, giving it stability, pry the hook of the spring with a screwdriver and unhook it;
To install the spring: proceed in reverse order.
Shock absorbers must also be checked: unscrewed, broken or worn struts do not dampen the vibration emanating from the drum. Such parts need to be replaced - dismantling the old ones and installing new ones. The procedure is as follows:
remove the front panel of the case;
unscrew the bolt securing the rack from below;
unclick the upper latches of the damper by placing a nut or socket wrench on the back of the bushing, and then pull it towards you with pliers;
remove the shock absorber from the machine.
Is the depreciation okay? Then we remove the back wall, take out the heating element, and through the vacated hole we try to feel with our hands the object that has fallen into the tank. Instead of fingers, you can use a wire hook.
Bearing unit
More often the drum begins to rumble due to worn bearings. If you delay replacing them, the situation will be aggravated by deformation of the cross and breakage of the shaft. It is better not to take risks, but immediately, at the first sign of a problem, begin diagnosing and repairing the bearing assembly.
Replacing bearings is a labor-intensive task. You will need to completely disassemble the machine, halve the washing tank, and then clean the “nest” and knock out the clips. You can do this yourself, but it is difficult.
For self-repair, it is recommended to purchase a special repair kit consisting of two bearings and an oil seal. You will also need lubricant, WD-40 cleaner, a hammer, a drift and a hacksaw.
I changed the flange to Ardo with vertical loading. And now something is catching the drum. Probably for the heating element. Tell me, what did I do wrong?
The washing machine should operate almost silently - only a uniform hum or the rumble characteristic of a spin cycle is acceptable. If, during normal washing, you hear a rustling or knocking sound from the drum, then there is a problem. Especially when at low speeds the sound is louder, and at high speeds it becomes quieter or disappears altogether. A rustling noise occurs when the washing machine drum hits something while rotating. All that remains is to figure out where the “clue” is and how to eliminate it.
I changed the flange to Ardo with vertical loading. And now something is catching the drum. Probably for the heating element. Tell me, what did I do wrong?